Grand Canyon North Rim 2010

I think I have 4 photo galleries of the pictures I took just on June 9, 2010 – 209 shots.  Not all of them made it onto SmugMug.  That was the day we drove from Cortez, Colorado to the Grand Canyon North Rim.   As my trip diary says, it wouldn't have taken us so long if we hadn't kept stopping to take pictures…

After we left Monument Valley, which we detoured to see, we drove more or less straight to the Grand Canyon, through the Vermilion Cliffs and over the Colorado River at Lee's Ferry, just below the Glen Canyon Dam. Here are the Vermilion Cliffs. The notch you see in the cliffs, about a third of the way in from the right, is where the road comes through.  And goes down. 

Vermilion Cliffs

Here's the Colorado River at Lee's Ferry, taken from the bridge:

Colorado River from Lee's Ferry Bridge

We saw two California Condors, hovering over the bridge about 100 feet up.  I didn't get a photo (drat).  My husband did.

This trip involves a lot of driving through a lot of nowhere, but God, is it beautiful nowhere.  Driving through the Red Desert is a cure for any feeling of self-importance you may have.  Or security.  If you break down out there it'll take a long time for the rescue crew to find you – although there's pretty steady traffic along the road.  Cell phone coverage, not so much.

We stayed in the cabins at the North Rim, and we arrived, after a nice drive across the Kaibab Plateau, around 5:30 in the evening.  Which means the rest of that day's photos are very late afternoon and sunset shots:

Grand Canyon, evening

At Lee's Ferry the altitude was approximately 3,700 feet, and the temperature was 103º.  The Lodge on the North Rim is at 8,255 feet and the temperature was 74º.  About 2 hours apart.

If you've never been to the Grand Canyon, descriptions just don't cut it.  I'm not afraid of heights per se – airplanes and skyscrapers don't bother me – but I am afraid of falling. The place terrified me.  There are some security rails but in a lot of places there's nothing between you and 6,000 feet down but your own common sense.  You can't even see the bottom from the rim, most places.  And the edge draws you somehow.  I got used to it, sort of, but you have to respect the place.  It makes no accommodations for you; you have to accommodate to it. Here's Bright Angel Point – with some bold explorers.  I never had the nerve to go out.  (Of course, I was walking with a cane at the time.)

Bright Angel Point

I'd been to the Grand Canyon before but had never actually seen the place.  When I was about 14, my parents took us on a Camping Trip to see the great national parks:  Lehman Caves, Bryce, Zion, and the Grand Canyon.  That was the trip the family car vaporlocked (if you're old enough you know what that was) crossing Nevada; which caused us to stop a couple of days in Salt Lake City while my dad bought a length of copper pipe and rerouted the fuel line away from the exhaust manifold.  Somewhere there is a photo of dad, standing in the desert next to the motionless car, looking disgusted. Only my dad would interrupt a vacation to rebuild the car.

By the time we got to the Grand Canyon, last stop on the trip, we were all pretty tired.  We pulled into a campground at the South Rim around 5 in the evening and started to pitch the tent – and then it began to rain.  We'd been running from the thunderstorm since we left Zion and it had caught up with us.  So we struck the tent and stuffed everything back into the top carrier (homemade of 1×4 oak boards, but that's another story) and hit the road.  That trip was one of the few times in my life where we actually had to stop the car because it was raining so hard.  The windshield wipers on that car simply couldn't keep up.  So I never did see the Grand Canyon on that trip, and it took me fifty years to get back.  In a better car.

There's one more footnote to that camping trip.  We were all sleeping on air mattresses.  In the scramble to repack in the rain, two of the mattresses got pinched.  We discovered this around 1 AM, in a campground in Las Vegas, during a dry thunderstorm – my mother and I woke up on the ground.  That was the point at which mother decided we had camped enough – the rest of the trip home we stayed in motels!

The rest of these photos are in the gallery To The North Rim.  The earlier posts on this vacation are at Hedera's Corner under 2010 Vacation.

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Central Park, Summer 2009

I've decided to change my blog habits a bit, now that my personal site has a solid blogging platform.  I'll move the blogging reports of our vacations to this site, and leave Hedera's Corner for my political rants, which was its original purpose anyhow.  So this post is the next in the series tagged 2009 Vacation; the link will take you to the five earlier posts.

Yes, I know I'm three years behind in this. I've been busy, OK?  I still have to finish processing the photos for the trip to the Grand Canyon in 2010, too.  Digital cameras produce way more photos than I can easily deal with, given that I can't decide what to leave out.  I'm getting better at that.

To remind you, in 2009 we spent 7 days in New York City.  This post, and photo gallery, cover the morning we spent in Central Park.  My first surprise in Central Park was how rocky it was.  That is serious bedrock there. 

New York Central Park

Central Park has been written up by greater writers than I, so I'll just include some of the things I noticed and enjoyed.  We checked out Belvedere Castle, which is probably the most elegant weather station I'll ever see:

Belvedere Castle

Belveder Castle is near Turtle Pond, one end of which is clear while the other end is almost solid duckweed.  While exploring the "castle" we found a starling sitting just above our heads:

Starling

I love telephoto zoom lenses.  Starlings are noisy and messy, but they are pretty.  Strolling through the park, I noticed a squirrel and got a good closeup of him:

Squirrel, Central Park

Near the Conservatory Water, we found the Alice in Wonderland statue, which I enjoyed quite as much as the children who were climbing on it.  The photo gallery has closeups of some of the figures.

Alice in Wonderland statue

I have no photos of the rest of the day.  We spent it at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and they wouldn't let me take my camera in.  They also wouldn't let me check my camera with them – too much liability to let me check all that expensive glass.  They actually wanted me to carry my camera equipment, including a 70-300mm telephoto, around in a plastic bag while I toured the museum!  We took a cab back to our hotel, where I left the camera in the room, and then took another cab back.

You could spend months exploring the Met, of course, and we had one afternoon, which we spent in one of the galleries of Musical Instruments, examining the history of brass instruments (Jim used to play the tuba) and the  ancestry of the harpsichord and piano.  Absolutely fascinating, and gave me an advanced case of "museum feet"!

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Oakland Shoreline Afternoon

The other weekend, a friend of mine had a birthday party at Martin Luther King Shoreline Park.  It was a nice party, but it wasn't my party, so I didn't take any photos of it.  I did take photos of the estuary and some of the birds there, including a pelican whom I caught just taking off:

Pelican taking off

The pelican continued on and I got a nice closeup of him, with the Oakland hills in the background:

An urban pelican

Most of my photos, though, were of these little guys.  There was a whole flock of them.

Long-billed dowitchers

After doing some research online, I think they're long-billed dowitchers, but I have to consult an expert before I can be sure.  As you can see, there was quite a flock.  I didn't realize how many until they decided to take off:

Shorebirds taking off

Feel free to enjoy the rest of the photos in the gallery.

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Turkeylets

I saw something amazing this morning on the way back from the gym.  The trip back is normally a straight freeway ride, but the Highway Patrol was running a “break,” so I got off the freeway at an exit that would let me get home on the streets.  This particular exit has a very long ramp, and as I came down it, I saw a large bird in the right shoulder, which I identified as a turkey.  As I pulled abreast of the bird, I realized it was a female turkey, and all those little things running around her feet were baby turkeys!  You can’t get out the smartphone and aim the camera while driving the car at 25 mph or so (at least, I’m not about to try it!), so I have no photos.  But there must have been two dozen turkey chicks (maybe more) running around on that shoulder!  I hope they all got into the brush all right.

I think the technical term for baby turkeys is “poults,” but I like “turkeylets” better.

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Learning the Charleston

My friend Chris, with whom I worked for many years, often forwards me (on a list of his friends) emails with links another friend of his has found on the Internet.  Recently his friend has discovered the British Pathe site – if you don’t know what British Pathe was, you should probably go and prowl around.  This was the outfit that did the newsreels that were shown in the cinema, before the silent movies; and later before the talkies, through much of the 20th century.  According to Wikipedia, they gave up in 1970, defeated by television; but the archive exists and you can buy videos from the site. They are not cheap.  But if you want to see the original video of the Titanic leaving port, this is where you go.

I was staggered by the video of Queen Victoria attending a garden party in 1898!  (God, she was ugly!  And God, the film quality is awful – but after all, it’s almost 115 years old…)

The best, though, was an extended (silent) lesson from the 1920′s on how to do the Charleston!  It has a music track (probably originally played live by an orchestra), but no words.  It ends with – no.  I won’t tell you.  It’s too crazy.  It’s only about 7 minutes, so watch it, and wait for the wildest taxi ride you’ve ever seen!

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Yosemite in March

I finally got (1) all the stuff cleaned up that suddenly appeared and had to be done, and (2) all the photos sorted, processed, labeled and uploaded; and I’m now finally ready to tell you about our weekend in Yosemite, over the weekend of March 30-31.

Driving over via highway 99 was just so-so.  The sky had a light overcast; muggy and overcast but not really threatening.  We couldn’t get a room in the valley for Thursday night so we stayed at Tenaya Lodge on Highway 41, just short of the Wawona Road.  It’s a very nice facility and would be even nicer if its architect had thought to install soundproofing.  We stayed on the first floor and the people above us sounded like a troop of Irish river dancers.  Breakfast was very nice but dinner was loaded with salt, enough that we complained about it.

The next day we drove into Yosemite Valley and back out again.  We stopped at Bridal Veil Falls and took a few photos:

Bridal Veil Falls

Then we drove back out of the valley on Highway 140, along the Merced River, looking for wildflowers.  My, did we find them.  The poppies were out in force.  Must have been all that rain earlier in the month.

Poppies along the highway

We turned off the highway at Briceburg and took Bull Creek Road (intermittently paved) along the Merced; this is the old railroad grade, there are 3 campgrounds along the river that Jim likes to camp at.  We had lunch by the river at McCabe Flat:

McCabe Flat

Then we drove on to Railroad Flat, where a hobbyist has built a new railroad trestle over a tributary of the Merced.  Without it, hikers would have to scramble down the bank and ford the stream.

Railroad trestle

Friday was a gorgeous day, sunny and mild, exploding with wildflowers all over.

Redbut tree and poppies

We stayed the next two nights in a “hard sided” cabin in Curry Village.  I’ll show you the cabin a little later.  These things are an institution.  They were perfectly reasonable traveler accommodations in, say, 1935, and they haven’t really been updated much since then. The wash stand is in the room, not the bathroom, and the double beds were a little short for Jim’s taste.

We’ve always stayed either at the Lodge or the Ahwahnee; the people who stay in Curry Village are an entirely different group.  More families; more students (some staying in the tent cabins); more international travelers.  Fortunately, around 2 AM, I finally figured out how to turn on the ancient wall heater in the cabin and after that we were reasonably comfortable.  Even after a warm and pleasant day, man, does it get cold at night in Curry Village!

Saturday was the reason we went – the Yosemite Conservancy‘s spring program.  The day began crisp and sunny.  At this point Jim and I separated and didn’t meet until 4:30 PM, and what a change.  My first event was a “photographer’s walk” out into Cook’s meadow, where we mostly took photos of Yosemite Falls, which was blowing like a horse’s tail in a very strong, blustery, cold wind.

Yosemite Falls

By the time we finished, the whole west end of the valley was covered with clouds and we figured the predicted storm was about there.  My second trip, about an hour and a half later, was a stroll through the meadow, no photos, with a “what would John Muir do?” meditation from an admiring ranger.   By that time it was so warm I removed my fleece layer and tied it around my waist.  As I sat and ate lunch, it got colder and cloudier; fleece back on; and by 2 o’clock, my session on how to use trekking poles for mobility and balance began in a steady pouring rain.  That was the end of that day’s photos.  It poured continually until 4:30, when I dragged myself (after 5.6 miles, or roughly twice my normal max!) up to the Visitors’ Center in an increasing snow storm.

It snowed 3.5 inches that night, based on the accumulation on our car the next morning.  Remember, the day before it probably hit 65°.  Here’s the cabin photo next morning, it is still snowing:

Curry Village cabin

It stopped snowing as we ate breakfast.  The valley was stunning, covered with snow (be careful how you walk under trees, it’s melting fast) and fog.  Here are the heights above Curry Village:

Above Curry Village

We drove out through the melting snow, stopping to take more photos on the way.  If you’d like to browse the whole gallery, or see some of these larger, you’ll find it here:  Yosemite March 2012.  Hope you enjoy seeing them as much as I enjoyed taking them.

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Virtuoso Accordion and Other Things

Xasásuan Today isn’t a site I normally visit – my hiker husband pointed it out to me.  We aren’t quite sure what Xasásuan is – it may be the name of an Essalen village.  The Essalen lived around the Ventana Wilderness.

The blog has a “check it out” page which apparently has links to everything the author has ever found interesting.  One of them blew me away:

I’ll probably never hear Vivaldi played on an accordion again, but I have to admit, this kid is GOOD!

They also had a link to a 2009 article from Wired magazine called Mapping the 7 Deadly Sins, which is funny enough to check out.  Be sure to read the criteria they use to assign each sin to an area.

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The Neighborhood Skunk

I am not referring to an unpleasant neighbor; I like my neighbors.  The skunk I refer to is furry and black, with a vivid white stripe down his back and along his large fluffy tail.  He’s about the size of a large house cat.

I’m not sure why, but my mental image of skunks is that they’re kind of slow.  This little guy is quite agile.  I saw him Wednesday night, returning from rehearsal around 10:30 – as I came into the last block of Patton Street, he ran across the street in front of me, tail rippling, and dived into the schoolyard. Fortunately, I was never close enough to him to scare him.

Tonight at about 10:40, I realized that I’d never taken in the mail – the mailman was very late, I went out for dinner before he got here, and I must have forgotten to check when I came back in.  I opened our front door – to find a full mailbox – and the skunk was at the end of our front walk, on the sidewalk.  He was no happier to see me than I was to see him, so he turned and ran into my neighbor’s yard.  I hope nothing annoys him while he’s there.  It’s right under our bedroom window.

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Smoke Alarms

There is nothing more annoying than having the battery on a smoke alarm go south at 6:40 AM on Saturday.  (Unless maybe at 3:00 AM on a work day.)  Beep.  Wait one minute.  Beep.  And on and on.

Usually my better half takes care of this stuff for me, but he’s backpacking this weekend, so it was up to me – get up, get the ladder (from the basement), climb 2 flights of stairs back up, take down the alarm, replace the battery, put the alarm back up.  By this time, of course, it was about the time I was thinking about getting up anyway; but I refused to dictated to by a device.  I went back to bed.  For 20 minutes.

Fortunately we had one (count it) good 9V battery in the house.  Add that to the shopping list.

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Placebo

I’m fascinated by the way words change over time.  I’ve seen several scientific reports lately on the use and effectiveness of “placebo” drugs – a scientific term for a sugar pill, or more formally an inert substance given instead of an actual drug.  Placebos are often used in double-blind clinical trials, on the control group.  Without checking statistics, I seem to recall that placebos can sometimes produce improvements in medical condition in 30-40% of patients using it – pretty impressive for an inert substance.

But I ran across the word recently in a totally different context.  I was researching the use of paid mourners in medieval funerals, for my recent post on The Mourners, and I found this quote in an article on the use of placebos in multiple sclerosis:

The word placebo derives from the Latin term “to please.”  The concept of a placebo comes from medieval times, when professional mourners were paid to stay by the bedside of deceased person, reciting a psalm beginning “Placebo Domino…” or “I shall please the Lord.”  “Placebo” gradually became the word used for the paid mourner, whose grief was, in fact, false.

Placebo Domino in regione vivorum” is part of the Roman Catholic Office of the Dead.  How did we get from a paid mourner at a medieval funeral to an inert substance that may produce positive result in 30-40% of cases?  The Wikipedia article on Placebo (at funeral) adds a little more detail:

In France, it was the custom for the mourning family to distribute largesse to the congregation immediately following the Office of the Dead ritual. As a consequence, distant relatives and other, unrelated, parasites would attend the ceremony, simulating great anguish and grief in the hope of, at least, being given food and drink.

So they weren’t always directly paid to mourn.  But because they sang “Placebo Domino” during the Office of the Dead for people they may not even have known, they were known as “placebo singers” and eventually merely as “placebos.”  Placebo became a general term for useless parasites.  By 1386 when Chaucer wrote the Canterbury Tales, “placebo” in England had come to mean a sycophant:

…this use seems to have arisen among those otherwise unaware of the words’s origin but who knew that the word is Latin for “I will please”.

One of the characters in The Parson’s Tale is named Placebo, a fawning toady who agrees with everything the story’s main character says.  The Wikipedia author conjectures that:

This may have helped to give “placebo” the English medical meaning of “simulator”.

The general Wikipedia article on the term placebo goes into more detail about modern medical uses of placebos and is worth reading if the subject interests you.

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