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- Wade in the Water 2017
I see from my first post on this trip that I planned to write it up sooner. Well, I won’t go into details here but 2018 has been more chaotic than I expected. Before I talk about Ketchikan I’d like to add some more comments on cruises, from my notes in transit. As I mentioned in the first post, we had 4 hours a day of seminar lectures and rehearsals. They were very interesting and I always like to sing, but the ship’s management on this round apparently wasn’t nearly as cooperative as the ones on the first cruise, and our assigned rehearsal space was an empty bar, and the only seating was backless padded hassocks. The area also had very poor lighting and very loud air conditioning. Lynne put up with that for about 2 days, then moved us to the other end of the bar, a quieter location with better seats, on the principle that it’s better to ask forgiveness than permission. We stayed in the new spot for the rest of the trip. I also have a note about formal nights, when everyone was supposed to dress up for dinner. In most cases this was just nice dresses and sports jacket, but I swear one formal night I saw a man in white tie, tails, top hat, and a cane! He didn’t sit at our table. On to Ketchikan, where I opted for the walking tour of the town. All the Ketchikan photos here, and a number of others, are in my photo gallery Ketchikan, which you can see by clicking on the link. Ketchikan’s harbor is very small, and looks even smaller when it’s full of cruise ships. Continue reading
I haven’t mentioned the b&b we stayed at in Vancouver. The West End Guest House was fascinating. Built in 1906, it’s very central, between the center of the city and Stanley Park; you can walk to Robson Street for shopping and dining. When we were there it was run by a young gay couple, and while I think they were in the process of refurbishing it (my diary suggests not everything was perfect), it now gets 5 stars from TripAdvisor. And the breakfast conversation was amazing. The other guests included a Scottish couple (leaving next morning for Moraine Lake near Banff, where we stayed in 2004), a British couple (eventually planning to go out to Tofino, before visiting a son in Melbourne), a Swiss couple, a Chinese couple, and an Iranian named Ali from Houston, Texas. The Chinese couple didn’t talk very much, although another guest said that the man’s English was better than his Chinese! We were there on the day of the Brexit referendum, and I remember having a long discussion on it with the British woman in the afternoon.
When we go to Vancouver, we almost always visit Van Dusen Gardens. And so we did this time. We spent an afternoon wandering around, looking at the changes they’d made since the last time. We’ve been there so often I only took a few photos this time; click here to see the whole gallery. I’ll share a couple of examples. This is their swamp garden:
And this is the fountain in the lake, which is kind of their signature view:
Feel free to go look at the whole gallery, and also to check the gallery I shot when we visited in 2011 – click here for that link.
The second day we were there, though, we did something new. We’ve found Vancouver’s Bard on the Beach Shakespeare company to be very rewarding, so we had bought tickets to their production of the Merry Wives of Windsor. Instead of just going out there for the play, however, we decided to spend the entire day in Kitsilano, which is a charming district in Vancouver fronting on English Bay. We’d stayed in Kitsilano before, but had never just hung out on the beach.
After a pleasant weekend visiting our friends in Powell River, we drove off toward Vancouver. Powell River being where it is, our first stop was the Saltery Bay – Earl’s Cove ferry terminal. On a Monday morning, it wasn’t very busy, but the view was nice.
Having nothing else to do, I got the camera out and went looking for things to photograph. By gum, I found a bald eagle perching in a tree next to the terminal.
He eventually flew down and landed on the sandbar, where I couldn’t get a decent shot of him. I watched a 6-person canoe or scull paddle by:
Eventually the ferry came in:
The Saltery Bay ferry takes you just over the inlet to Earl’s Cove, after which you drive the length of the Sunshine Coast to the Langdale-Horseshoe Bay Ferry, which you take to the mainland. Then you drive on into Vancouver. I regret to say there are no reasonable photo ops from the Sunshine Coast Highway; it’s just a highway, mostly surrounded by tall trees on both sides. Pretty; hardly photographic. The drive takes about an hour and 20 minutes (79.8 km or not quite 50 miles).
I took some photos from the ferry, of the area around the Langdale ferry terminal, and of the trip among the islands as we traveled down to Vancouver; if you’d like to see them, the whole gallery is called Ferry to Vancouver.
On December 29, Jim and I decided to drive over to Point Reyes Lighthouse and see if we could see any whales. It was a mild sunny day, the Friday before New Year’s, and he thought there might be a smaller crowd than on the actual weekend, when we’d have to park well away and ride a shuttle bus in.
We drove over in the late morning and were stunned to find very light traffic – on Interstate 80, on 580 over the Richmond Bridge, and almost no traffic at all on Lucas Valley Road, which we took out to Highway 1. We planned to have lunch in Point Reyes Station. As we got to Highway 1, we saw the first serious traffic of the day – apparently everyone else was going to Point Reyes Station too. We parked and started to look for a restaurant, and were stopped by an older woman who was standing on the corner marveling at the crowds. “I’ve never seen so many people here,” she said. She then turned to us and asked, “What are you two doing here?” We laughed and said we were on our way to Point Reyes. She wasn’t hostile, merely amazed; we chatted briefly and she recommended a restaurant. Point Reyes Station is a very small town.
After lunch we drove on out to Point Reyes. If you’ve never done it, it’s a long drive, through farm country – you do the entire trip on Sir Francis Drake Blvd West, turning off Highway 1. The directions on the park site say turn off Highway 1 onto Bear Valley Road, but that shortly becomes Sir Francis Drake West. At several points the road ran through the inhabited areas of local ranches; once we had to stop and wait until the cattle finished crossing the road. It’s very beautiful and very far from anywhere else.
I have no photographs from the cruise while we were at sea. Frankly, the open ocean, or even the ocean relatively near the coast, is not very “photograph-able.” It’s a flat blue expanse below a featureless blue sky, when it isn’t a flat gray expanse below a featureless gray ditto. That’s why most of the photos I took were in port. I’ll get to them in later posts.
If I ever cruise again, which is not a given, I’ll want to find a female friend to room with. There weren’t any real problems with my roommate, except that she is very close friends with the couple who organized the trip, and she preferred to hang out with them. She and I were the only people in our group who weren’t part of a couple. I can’t speak for her, but I spent most of my meals alone in the buffet – or briefly alone. I soon found that if I sat down at an empty table with 4 settings, within 10 minutes or so a couple would come along and ask if they could join me; and most of them were quite friendly and chatty. So that was interesting, and passed the time. It isn’t a way to make friends, but people on cruises tend to be quite friendly and outgoing. I was amazed at the number of people who prefer cruising as their chosen vacation. I had no idea.
Janet, a girl I went to high school with in Napa, California, married in the late ’70s, and she and her husband Wes moved to Powell River, British Columbia, where they stayed and raised 2 children. When we’re in the area, we often go to visit them, and so in 2016.
Where, you ask, is Powell River?? Well, it’s on the B.C. coast, just north of the “Sunshine Coast” (which I normally associate with rain). From Vancouver it takes 2 ferry rides and about a half day driving. From Victoria, still a half day driving but only 1 ferry ride, from Comox to Powell River. It used to have a paper mill (Macmillan Bloedel), but that closed; now it’s mainly tourism.
Here’s the view across the strait from the Comox Ferry terminal, waiting for the ferry:
The ferry looks like a ferry; there’s a photo in the gallery, to see the whole gallery click here.
I did something new in the summer of 2017. I took a Princess Cruise – inside passage, to Alaska and back. I didn’t do this on my own. I sing with the Oakland Symphony Chorus, directed by Dr. Lynne Morrow of Sonoma State University. Dr. Morrow – Lynne – is, among other things, a scholar of African American spirituals, and this cruise was her second effort at a floating seminar on the subject, ending in a single performance on the ship, the last night before we docked in San Francisco. I couldn’t go the first time she did this, a couple of years ago, so when I got an email about it in September 2016, I signed up.
I don’t have any photos from the ferry ride over to Victoria from Seattle. This is partly because it started at 7 AM, a time of day when I’m not fully functional. Besides, you don’t see much of interest from a ferry, just a lot of water. On that ride you didn’t even see many islands. When we got to Victoria, we rented a car and drove to the bed and breakfast where we’d reserved a room, called Albion Manor. (The link goes to a photo gallery; excerpts below.) We enjoyed it very much. First, it’s a beautiful house with varied and interesting decorations and gardens; it turned out one of our hosts had been a set designer, and still likes to pick up beautiful and odd items at auctions. Second, our hosts and their staff ran the place very well and served us wonderful breakfasts. Our room was in the basement and was very comfortable. Here’s a picture of the house.
As happens too often, I’m a year late blogging this vacation. Oh, well. My plan this time is to blog 2 years in parallel, but we’ll see.
In 2016 we decided we hadn’t visited British Columbia in a while, so we set up a trip. I was happy to learn that my friends Janet and Wes, who’ve lived up there since something like 1979, would be available if we came by on the dates we had in mind. But our trip began unusually. Instead of driving or flying, we decided to take the train – we booked a “bedroom” (a gross misrepresentation!) on the Coast Starlight, overnight from Oakland to Seattle. The train was supposed to arrive at 9:30 PM; it was half an hour late and then we were off.